Giverny and Auvers-sur-Oise: An Immersion in the Time of the Impressionists
Every summer, to celebrate the warm days of June, the International Youth Club of Paris organizes an excursion dedicated to the 19th-century Impressionists. Throughout the day, Club members enjoy the opportunity to explore the charming villages of Giverny and Auvers-sur-Oise.
Our Guide’s Favorite
This time, it’s Elise, our guide, who takes us on a journey to discover the beauty of the landscapes that inspired the paintings of Claude Monet and Vincent Van Gogh. Elise explains her choice: “This excursion offers a comprehensive overview of the Impressionist world and introduces us to three of the greatest names in this artistic movement: Van Gogh, Monet, and Daubigny. So, in my opinion, it’s the perfect excursion to discover the history of these painters.”
An Internationally-Flavored Visit
A radiant sun welcomes us on this June day. About fifty members of the International Youth Club gather on the steps of the Opéra Garnier, the usual meeting point for CIJP excursions. Among them are Italians, Russians, Americans, Canadians, Germans, Romanians… In total, 22 nationalities are represented on this excursion! We get to know each other, exchange conversations, and enjoy the cool morning air.
Claude Monet’s House and Gardens in Giverny
Before arriving in Giverny, Elise gives us a brief introduction to the history of Impressionism, an artistic movement born in the second half of the 19th century. She explains why she chose Giverny and Auvers-sur-Oise, how the two visits will unfold, and provides particularly interesting and curious information.
“In an hour and a half, we’ll arrive in Giverny.” The visit to Claude Monet’s estate begins with the Japanese garden, featuring a famous green-painted Japanese bridge. The participants quickly pull out their cameras and start taking hundreds of photos of this vibrant and light-filled place!
Historical Insights
In 1966, after significant restoration work, Claude Monet’s estate was bequeathed by his son Michel to the Academy of Fine Arts. The painter lived here for more than forty years. Initially a tenant, he eventually became the owner in 1890.
Claude Monet, a Pioneer of “Japonism”?
We pass by the painter’s house, which houses the “Blue Salon”—a reading room where we see the presence of Japanese prints. These prints are found throughout the house. Monet collected them from 1871 to 1926. It was Claude Monet who started the trend of collecting everything from Japan, a trend that was later adopted by many artists of his time, such as Victor Hugo.
The Artist’s Studio and Dining Room
Next, we discover the studio where Claude Monet worked. It was also a place where he liked to relax.
We enter his bedroom. He passed away here on December 5, 1926, after enduring numerous painful and exhausting surgeries on his right eye.
The Monet family dining room, with a table that could seat 14 people, was capable of hosting large gatherings. Blue and white tableware was Claude Monet’s favorite. Here, we find the porcelain cat given by Paul Signac, a painter who pioneered the pointillism or divisionism technique.
The Clos Normand, a Gathering Place for Artists
After visiting the painter’s house, we move on to the Clos Normand. It is a French-style garden, where man imposes his will on nature by meticulously trimming it. A perfect symmetry can be observed, and when looking at the garden, it’s clear that man’s hand is at work daily, preventing nature from growing freely.
Facing the Clos Normand
In 1883, Claude Monet bought a piece of land separated from the Clos Normand by a small railway line. After numerous administrative procedures, he finally succeeded in digging a pond. In 1895, he built the Japanese bridge that we saw earlier in our visit. Unlike the Clos Normand, the garden is completely asymmetrical. This garden plays a crucial role in Claude Monet’s work; it is here that he continually returned to dream of the subtle interplay between water and light.
The Water Lily Studio
We end our visit by passing through the Water Lily Studio, which has now become a souvenir shop. During the war of 1914-1918, Monet had an immense studio built with zenithal lighting to create a world separate from the conflict, a true artificial paradise where he could isolate himself. According to him, the Water Lily series created in Giverny is a work of national resistance.
A Visit That Won Many Heart
After participating in the tour dedicated to Claude Monet, Giuseppe, a 25-year-old Italian student, shares his impressions with us: “I really enjoyed Giverny and this guided tour! I find the garden magnificent, especially since the weather is beautiful today, and I thank you for offering this opportunity to the Club’s members.”
Pleasant Picnic in Auvers-sur-Oise
Now, we head to Auvers-sur-Oise, a town 30 km from Paris that was at the heart of the Impressionist movement at the end of the 19th century. As soon as we arrive, participants organize a picnic in the garden of the Château d’Auvers. We discuss the visit to Giverny while enjoying the sunshine.
Discovering the Life of Vincent Van Gogh in Auvers-sur-Oise
Elise tells us about the Château, built by a wealthy banker in 1635. Currently, the Château d’Auvers-sur-Oise offers a show-tour called “Voyage au temps des Impressionnistes” that highlights the traces of the great masters who left their mark on Auvers’ history: Daubigny, Pissarro, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Monet…
Oxana, a Russian student and member of the Club, shares her experience of visiting the Château: “It remains the most striking impression of the day. The Château offers special animations, and screenings of films and short films about the 19th century and Impressionism. Without a doubt, I was able to enrich my knowledge in the field of painting and art.”
We then head up to the Church of Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption, which became famous thanks to the painting by Vincent Van Gogh. The church was erected in the 12th and 13th centuries. In 1915, it was classified as a historical monument.
Musée de l’Absinthe
A highlight of our visit to Auvers is the discovery of the Musée de l’Absinthe, which recreates the ambiance of Belle Epoque cafés, where absinthe was the favorite drink of artists and painters. The founder and director of the museum, Marie-Claude Delahaye, explains to us the importance of this drink in the cultural life of the 19th century. The presentation takes place in the museum’s pleasant garden, in the form of an outdoor lecture.
Cemetery of Auvers-sur-Oise
Next, our steps lead us to the cemetery, the final resting place of Vincent van Gogh and his brother Theo. The Dutch painter was buried here on July 30, 1890, and his brother Theo died in Holland six months later. He was brought next to his brother in April 1914. The graves are of utmost simplicity, just covered with ivy, as per the wishes of their heirs and Dr. Gachet, who took care of van Gogh during his entire stay in Auvers.
The Ravoux Inn
The visit to Auvers ends at the Ravoux Inn. Today, it is a restaurant and wine shop. This inn is famous because the painter lived here for over two months and painted more than 70 canvases. On July 27, 1890, in a field where he was painting his last work, he shot himself in the chest. Brought back dying to the Ravoux Inn, he died two days later, supported by his brother Theo. He was 37 years old.
The Final Word
The visit is coming to an end. Julie, a Club volunteer, shares her thoughts: “It was great to visit Auvers with Elise’s explanations, our guide. We saw this village through Van Gogh’s paintings from his perspective, and we tried to compare reality with the paintings. As a result, compared to a museum, we discovered what was behind the canvases, and that was really an advantage.”
Oxana adds: “I completely agree with Julie. I would like to thank Elise for her work. This is my second visit with her, and I really appreciated her way of speaking—very clear and quite simple—as well as her personality: a very open and kind person. Giverny and Auvers are unique places with unique nature… In a word, I loved today’s excursion.”
It’s 6:30 pm, and it’s time to return to Paris. We get on the bus. Naturally, the participants are happy and a bit tired. On a Saturday evening, the streets of Paris are congested, but we use this waiting time to share our strong and pleasant impressions with the new acquaintances we made during this wonderful day.
In summary, this excursion to Auvers-sur-Oise allowed participants to immerse themselves in Van Gogh’s world, offering a unique and enriching experience thanks to Élise’s passionate explanations. Between artistic discoveries and moments of sharing, the day was marked by warm exchanges and new friendships. As the group returns to Paris, everyone holds onto the beautiful memories of the day, eager to experience new cultural adventures with the Club.